From Egg Coffee to Cao Lau: My Time in Vietnam
So for this week we’re going to shift a little bit away from the photography focused talks and move into another topic and activity that I love, travel. Everyone has some form of addiction and mine is for sure traveling. I can’t remember where I was reading it but I saw something that talked about how travel is millennials version “Keeping up with the jones”. It goes on to politely bash traveling and to be fair the writer does make some good points but i’ll tell you this.. They didn’t make enough good points for me to stop traveling! So lets dive in.
Hanoi The Place I thought I Would Get Run Over.
So this is a post about a trip I took in 2023 to the beautiful country of Vietnam. I started my short two-week adventure in the wild city of Hanoi. I landed late at night, feeling drunk from jet lag, but I managed to make my way to the taxi area and haggle for a ride into town without overpaying too much.
As we weaved through the streets and got closer to the city center, I could already tell this would be a trip to remember. The vibrant markets, the endless motorbikes, and the smells in the air from every corner, it felt like no other place I’d ever been. It was overstimulating, if I’m being honest, and almost anxiety-triggering.
The next morning, I woke up excited to explore but still completely drained. My first stop needed to be something simple, so I decided to visit the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum, a landmark built to honor Ho Chi Minh and inaugurated on August 29, 1975. If I remember right, the entry fee for foreigners was about $1 or VND25,000. Totally worth it for the experience.
I hadn’t done much research beforehand, so I didn’t know what to expect. All I knew was that I’d get to see Ho Chi Minh’s embalmed body, which felt kind of creepy but also fascinating. The long walk to the viewing area is lined with soldiers who make sure visitors remain respectful. No hats, no talking, no photos, and nothing they might consider rude. Trust me, they’ll call you out or even ask you to leave if you break the rules.
One interesting thing I learned while I was there is that Ho Chi Minh actually requested to be cremated, with his ashes scattered across three regions of Vietnam. The government decided to embalm him and build the mausoleum instead, honoring him in their own way. While it wasn’t his wish, I have to admit, I’m glad I got to witness this piece of history up close.
If you find yourself in Hanoi, I highly recommend visiting the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum. It’s more than just a historical site. It’s an experience that stays with you, at least it has with me.
Egg Coffee Should Be The New Normal.
After the Mausoleum, I decided to try something Hanoi is famous for: egg coffee. If you’ve never heard of it, here’s the backstory. Egg coffee was invented in Hanoi during the 1940s by Nguyen Van Giang, a bartender at the Sofitel Legend Metropole Hotel. The story goes that he created the creamy topping by mixing egg yolk and condensed milk as a substitute for fresh milk, which was hard to come by at the time.
Making egg coffee is an art. It starts with brewing a strong cup of Vietnamese coffee using a drip filter. Then the egg yolk is whipped with condensed milk until it’s thick and creamy. This velvety mixture is spooned over the coffee, creating a rich, frothy layer on top.
I’m big enough to admit, during my short time in Hanoi, I got completely hooked on egg coffee and the charming little cafés where I found it. I’ll share a few of my favorite spots below so you can check them out, too. Just a heads-up: too much of this drink will definitely have you running to the bathroom, so enjoy responsibly!
Ninh Bình “Halong Bay On Land”
After Hanoi, I needed something more laid back so I headed south to Tam Coc, also known as Ninh Bình. This might just be one of my favorite places in the world. Often called the "Halong Bay on land," Tam Coc is quiet, stunning, and everything I love in a destination.
The highlight of my trip was Tràng An, a UNESCO World Heritage site and one of the most breathtaking places I’ve ever seen. When you arrive, you pick one of three routes—1, 2, or 3. I chose route 2, but honestly, all of them take you through beautiful landscapes and caves. The main difference is how many caves you’ll pass through.
After choosing a route, you hop into a small boat with a driver and sometimes a few other visitors. You can paddle to help out or just sit back and enjoy the view—it’s totally up to you. On my boat, they grouped the larger people together, and I felt bad for the driver, so I paddled the whole time. Every now and then, I’d glance back and see her casually rowing with her feet while lounging like it was no big deal. It was both impressive and strangely relaxing to watch.
Here are a few photos from the park to give you an idea of what it looks like.
After the two-hour tour around Tràng An, I was ready to stretch my legs. I hopped on my bike and headed to Mua Cave, where I grabbed a drink, skipped the overpriced tourist food, and hiked to the top of the mountain for a view of the surrounding rice fields. The hike is steep, but the view is worth every step. Trust me on this one.
If you’re looking for a relaxing, quiet trip in Vietnam, I can’t recommend Tam Coc enough. Just like the egg coffee and the charming cafés in Hanoi, Tam Coc has its own unique charm. Here are a few of my favorite spots to eat and grab coffee:
The Final Stop
The last place I would visit was Hoi An, mainly to visit My Son Sanctuary, another UNESCO World Heritage site. What stood out to me most about the Sanctuary is that it was once the religious and political capital of the Champa Kingdom, a civilization that thrived in Vietnam from the 4th to the 15th century. The Sanctuary was dedicated to the worship of Shiva, making it an important cultural and spiritual site.
If you’re planning a visit, I highly recommend getting a guide unless you can read Vietnamese. The history packed into this place is worth hearing about, and having a guide makes the experience much better. Plus, there’s a performance inspired by the Champa people that’s worth sticking around for if that’s your thing.
Hoi An was lovely, but it was by far the most touristy spot on this trip. While it’s easy to find yourself surrounded by vendors selling plastic toys that shoot into the sky or LED-lit sticks for nighttime strolls, there are still quieter pockets where you can escape the crowds. Despite the touristy vibe, the city has a lot to offer, and I had some incredible meals here, including a standout local dish called Cao Lau.
What makes Cao Lau truly special are the noodles, which are unique to Hoi An and can’t be found anywhere else in the world. The noodles are said to be made with water from a specific well in Hoi An, known as the "Ba Le Well." This well is believed to have a unique mineral content that gives the noodles their distinct taste and texture. The flat noodles are reminiscent of Japanese udon but have their own unforgettable flavor profile.
I fell in love with this dish, and I still find myself dreaming about how different and delicious it was. The best spot I found for Cao Lau was called Cao Lầu Bà Đình.
After Hoi An, I headed back to Hanoi to wrap up my trip and catch my flight home. It was a short two weeks, but it was packed with incredible experiences. Vietnam is truly one of the most beautiful and culturally rich countries I’ve ever visited. The people, the food, and the landscapes all left a lasting impression on me.
Thanks for reading about my adventure. If you’ve been to Vietnam or have any questions about my trip, feel free to leave a comment—I’d love to hear from you!
If you’ve made it this far, thank you so much for reading—I truly appreciate it! Writing and sharing these posts has been such an unexpected joy, and it’s all because of you. If you’d like to show some extra love, consider subscribing, upgrading to a paid subscription, or sharing this post with a friend. You can also find me on Instagram at @Lagomvisuals. Thanks for being here, and I can’t wait to share more with you soon!
This is very informative. I’m thinking of visiting Vietnam but couldn’t decide which spot to visit if I only have a couple of days. Thank you